Lahore…… Lahore Aye…
"I have purchased Lahore with my life. By giving my life for Lahore, I have actually
purchased another Paradise."
Empress Noor Jahan
Memoirs of my early childhood in an enchanting city
called Lahore…when somebody is asked to define the particular charm of their
good old city Lahore, native Lahori’s will
reply a short and sweet brief answer, 'Lahore
Lahore aye'.
A beautiful city with its faded elegance wearing a mantle of
Historical aura is remembered with fondness when my father was posted there in
the 70’s. Situated on the east bank of the Ravi River, it was once the capital
city of Mughal Empire. During the reign
of Shah Jahan's rule, Lahore became
the "City Of Gardens." The imprints of magnificent past though slowly
fading hold a miasma of historical glory.
The intellectual, cultural, artistic city is also lovingly calls heart [Dil] of Pakistan. Once you get past the
heat, noise and the crowded streets, Lahore’s inner beauty unfolds with elaborately
laid Mughal gardens, amazing mosques,
Sufi shrines, exotic bazaars, and
great educational institution, making it a city full of atmosphere, providing serene
spiritual tranquility contrasted with the pandemonium outside. Romance floats
in the very air of Lahore, between the haze of pollution molecules, roasted-earth
smell of the post rainfall in the streets, the blooming roses of the Great
Gardens or the aroma of food being cooked at roadside restaurants of every
corner of the city. Presently, Lahore is
the 2nd largest city of Pakistan, the 5th largest city in South Asia and the
23rd largest city in the World. It is only two and half hours away from Harappa the oldest
civilized city of the world. Lahore is perhaps the continuation of the north
part of the Great Indus valley civilization.
In the bazaars of the Old City one still comes across tiny
shops where craftsmen can be seen busy turning out master-pieces in copper,
brass, silver as well as textiles in the traditional fashion.
Anarkali bazaar is the most fascinating of the
city's many bazaars. It is a
treasure-trove, selling virtually everything from bangles, carpets, clothes, handicraft
to transistor radio, pots and pans, refrigerator, traditional crafts like
leather wear, embroidered garments glass bangles, beaten gold and silver
jewellery, creations in brocade and silk.
It is a fascinating maze of lanes and alleys which stretch northwards from the
Mall at the Central Museum end.
Evoking a romantic history it is named after the famous
courtesan of Akbar's court called Anarkali
(Pomegranate Blossom).
Down the memory lanes takes me to the bungalow located in Gulberg area. Gulberg is a combination of the Persian "Gul" [flower]
and a Punjabi variation of the Persian word bagh,
meaning an open park. Gulberg was
famous in the past for large gardens; hence the name, the house with a huge
garden with multitude fruits trees and hundreds of mango trees is still fondly
remembered.
The very climate of Punjab Lahore evokes passion and
compassion. My recollection of Lahore is remembered by only two seasons…. namely
the winter and the summer.
Magical summer was all about relishing savoring delicious
varieties of homegrown mangoes drinking sherbet and lassi [yogurt drink].Summer nights also meant sleeping under the sky
stargazing with my siblings we would make shapes out of constellations in the
night sky.
The Lahori summers
used to be heralded by angry red sky of an approaching dust storm. Those dull
orange yellow dust storms would strike horror and fear in the hearts of
everyone especially the farmer’s gardener’s and servants. With frantic
quickness they would be seen running back and forth closing the windows or
covering the baby plants. But to me those beautiful yellow red beige and brown
storms were visual delights. I would stand in the verandah under the mulberry
tree, mentally taking notes to paint those scenes. Witnessing the exciting
monsoon thunderstorms downpour, contemplating at the ingeniousness of Mother Nature,
the wonders of Allaah Kareem Great wisdom
I used to ponder over the process of the ripening of the mangoes, first with
the scorching Punjab heat, then quenching the thirst of the heat with the Monsoon
downpours. Amazing work of Divine Art, Great Power Drip Point to Ponder,
Presentation, deserving standing ovation…………which I would be doing, while
everyone else would be running
frantically around closing the windows lest the rain showers spoil the
floor carpets of the comfortable rooms.
The Mali [gardener]
bringing the basket full of fragrant “Motia”
[jasmine]to grandma to make bracelets [gajras]
is also fondly remembered. Visiting the
northern Lush green mountainous Nathiagali,
Murree, Swat, and Kaghan to
escape the Punjab heat in summer was
also part of childhood summer. Where we use to ran out of superlatives for the
scenery in the Northern part of Pakistan.
The climate of Lahore in winter is one of the best in the
world and this is the preferred time of the year to visit this historical and
culturally rich city which boasts of many grand buildings of the British and
the Mughal Era. Lahore's winter is
short-lived, but it can get quite chilly. January is the coldest month, with an
average high of 64 (18) and an average low of 41 (5).
The houses are not
centrally heated; at least in my time these were not, most people used to have gas
or electric heaters in their homes during these short and cold but cozy
romantic winters.
During the day the sun was the prime source of warmth, night
time was about keeping oneself warm around heaters or angethie’s the old fashioned way, and sleeping under that ton of
heavy rui ke lehaf [cotton filled
comforter.]
It was also about
wrapping up in layers to cope
with the winter chill, wearing all kinds of shawls, Kashmiri, local, mufflers
sweaters ,turtlenecks, cardigans……topies [hats].
The morning’s and afternoon ‘s was dedicated
to sitting in the verandah or lawn lazy-ing soaking in the sun, eating
dry fruits, my favorite chilgoza’s [pine nut] having halwa’s [sweet] and sipping
Kashmiri chai or coffee, with family
and friends. It was also about peeling and enjoying oranges, and shelling home
grown peas. My best part was devouring my favorite books, Enid Blyton, Archie,
Sad Sack, Mads, Comic books, illustrated classics, flipping glossy Vogue and
other foreign fashion magazine.
Driving through the hazy wintery, fog of Mall road….. to
school….and then stopping to buy dry fruits at Liberty Market, stall ‘s over
spilling with crunchy winter goodies in Gulberg’s
Main market especially my favorite gajaak…
Picnic Trips to the beautiful historical Shalimar Mughal gardens and mosques visiting
farmlands to enjoy yummy Sarson ka Saag
[Spinach] with Makai ki Roti [corn
bread] is also part of delicious Punjab memories.
My best years of school life were studying in Jesus and Mary
Convent School, a majestic classical colonial building located on Durand road
Lahore. Wide manicured lawns, flowerbeds brimming with zinnias, roses,
marigolds gigantic more than hundred years old mature trees shading the wide
walkways. The first impression of the school was of imposing grandeur an aura
of authority, commanding silent strictness. Most of my time was spend gazing
outside admiring the building instead of studying. Keeping an eye on the clock
for delicious lunch break, playing basketball and making plans with my friends.
Those were my days of developing understanding with the great English writers
Austen, Dickens, Gaskell, Bronte, Eliot, Hardy and many more.
Teachers had great expectations from us teaching ‘Great
Expectations’. Drilling the story of Pip, Pumblechook,
Miss Havisham and others, but my
greatest expectation was getting an ‘A’ in my Art class. Geometry, algebra and
math’s assignment was always done for me by my friend ‘Faiza’. The theory of
theorem was never kind to my brain analyzing system. History and geography was
loved because I loved making charts, illustration, and I always dream t of traveling.....excerpt from my book "Home is where your Desi Dil is".....coming soon
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